Located practically in the middle of nowhere is an impressive looking industrial warehouse with its own garden. Inside it – Amass – the super hyped restaurant by chef Matt Orlando, formerly of the three-starred and two starred Michelin restaurants Le Bernardin, Le Manoir, The Fat Duck and Per Se. Orlando also spent quite some time in Noma’s kitchen and at 2013 decided to leave and open his own place.
Walking into Amass you can’t help but stop to take in the space. You’re faced with a huge hangar, complete with high ceiling, large windows and concrete walls covered with impressive graffiti art. The atmosphere is light and informal – as the staff invites you to hang your coat yourself in a repurposed industrial elevator to the background music of light hip hop. The hall reverberates all the sounds coming from the kitchen, giving the place feeling of hustle and bustle. Even though the restaurant space is huge, tables are placed quite close to each other so you don’t end up feeling too lost in the large hall.
Refshaleøen, the island in which Amass is located used to be a huge shipyard. The years of industrial work left the soil too polluted to support housing. Quite surprisingly, Amass chose the very same ground to develop a garden which provides the variety of plants, fruits and vegetables served on its menu daily.
There are 2 options for lunch – 6 dishes for 650 kr. / $95 / 367₪ and 4 dishes for 395 kr. / $58 / 223₪. We chose the lighter menu.
The meal started with a dish of Borlotti Bean, Charred Chilies, Nasturtium and Smoke Fish. It was an amazing start. A complex blend of textures and seasoning.
The Fermented Potato Bread Amass makes is one of the most unique and delicious bread I’ve had. It has some interesting qualities: very heavy in weight but soft and yet it felt airy like a pancake. Together with the refreshing condiment of Roasted Kale & Kelp Paste it is a true delicacy. This dish was inspired by the traditional Norwegian bread called lefse – a flat and thin grilled potato-based bread. The Amass version is much thicker and highlights the fermentation process. If you’re not intimidated by baking, the recipe is available for you to try here.
The main dish served was Lamb Belly, Unripe Apple, Swiss Chard, Almond milk and Parsley Oil. The succulent lamb, oriental flavors, and hinted spiciness were delightful to our tastebuds.
For dessert we received Corn ice cream, Licorice honeycomb Crumbles and Preserved Wild Berries. Apparently, corn ice cream is very popular these days in Copenhagen. We had corn ice cream as a dessert in three separate restaurants. In Höst for example, it was served with caramelized popcorn, raspberries and yogurt. The most brilliant thing about Amass’ corn ice cream dish? the honeycomb crumbles!
A small surprise as we neared the end of our lunch – Roasted Tea Leaf Ash Marshmallow and Coffee Grinds Flatbread. The interesting bit about this dish is that it’s comprised of “leftover” ingredients from other dishes. A bold showcase for Amass’ philosophy to leave no waste behind. The restaurant believes in a holistic approach to food which prioritizes the environment, uses mostly organic and free of pesticides food, reduce wastes and saves water.
To end this fabulous meal we were served a steaming hot Sage Cake and Strawberry Jam. The uber soft and fluffy cake was simply amazing. Just look at these bold colors!
Right before heading our way (in a ship-bus, no less!) we received a to-go snack. Another dish resulting from Amass’ effort to cut down on food waste. We each got a bag of potato chips made from scraps of breadmaking. And the bag? made of cornstarch. It was the perfect snack for the boat ride back to the center of Copenhagen.
Even though Amass is located quite far from the center of Copenhagen, I would suggest to make an effort and visit. We had a great meal and a lovely time there. You can get here with a regular bus (Line 37 stops right at the front door) but we honestly recommend taking the boat bus, which makes regular stops across the canal for a more scenic experience that’s unique to Copenhagen.